3M Respirator & Extreme Sealant Tape

Updated: Jul 11

I bought two products by 3M: The 4412N Sealant Tape, and the Mold and Lead Paint Removal Respirator. I did extensive research about products and manufacturers such as Gorilla Glue Company, Tremco, Rustoleum, Flex Seal, and 3M.

I would like to thank 3M for their thorough and pleasant customer service, even telling me to email them photos of my studio to get a better understanding of my situation. They also provided the Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for their products.


3m respirator mask

Details for the Mask:

  • Medium - Item number 6297PA1-A. comes with one pair of filters #2097

  • "NIOSH-approved P100 rating filters at least 99.97% of solids and liquid aerosols, as well as oils" has a layer of activated charcoal to remove some organic vapor and bad smells

  • adjustable straps

  • Compatible with other 3M™ cartridges and filters

  • $24.93 on Amazon


REVIEW OF RESPIRATOR MASK:

RATING: 9/10.

mona lisa with respirator dust mask

Let's talk science:

  1. a list of chemicals and the suitable filters/respirator for them https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/639110O/3m-respirator-selection-guide.pdf

  2. what do all these letters and numbers mean!!!?? click below https://www.envirosafetyproducts.com/resources/dust-masks-whats-the-difference.html

  3. loving this site <3 click below https://pksafety.com/blog/respiratory-basics-n95-vs-p100

Respirator Rating Letter Class

N - Not oil resistant R - Resistant to oil P - Oil Proof

Respirator Rating Number Class

95 - Removes 95% of all particles that are at least 0.3 microns in diameter

99 - Removes 99% of particles that are at least 0.3 microns in diameter

100 - Removes 99.97% of all particles that are 0.3 microns in diameter or larger. HE or HEPA quality filter.


for example: asbestos is .7-90 macrons, lead is .1 to .7, bacteria .3-60

My main concern as a ceramicist is silica, which this does protect from. The N95 is listed to protect against Kaolin. I am sensitive to smells so using this for aerosol sprays and solvents will be great. However, I've had more comfortable masks before so I am rating it a 9/10.




Details for the Tape:

  • 2 in. (W) x 15 ft. (L) but comes in other sizes

  • $26.27 on Amazon

  • colors: Translucent (looks milky white), gray, and black

  • Single-sided. Ionomer backing is abrasion resistant and instantly seal-able, the adhesive side is acrylic. The ionomer feels a bit like silicon. Adhesive side resembles mouse glue traps.

  • Waterproof

  • 2.0 mm thick

  • Max Temperature: Short-term: 300°F , Long-term 200°F

  • SURFACE PREP: Best used with P94 (Tape primer) "For most surfaces, cleaning with a 50:50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol* (IPA) and water works well. If the substrate is contaminated with heavy oils or grease, a degreaser or strong solvent may be used to remove the oil, but a final wipe of IPA/water should be used."

  • Apply "when temperature is between 70° and 100°F (21° and 38°C)... reaches full bond strength after 24 hours but provides a seal immediately."

  • If stored properly (between 40 and 100 °F and 50% relative humidity) works great for up to 24 months

Here's a link for the SDS:

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/563174O/3mtm-extreme-sealing-tape-4412n-4411n-4411g-and-4412g.pdf


REVIEW OF TAPE:

hot mess before the tape

So unfortunately the contractor who built my studio did a cheap and pretty bad job. Definitely was not the "measure twice cut once" type. SO the PVC clear panels that are my studio roof would leak rain water in between the panels. Then he threw some tar or liquid rubber or whatever ugly and inefficient sealant over the seams. He did so over a silicon caulk, which caused the black stuff to not even adhere (face palm). Luckily for me, removing the black stuff and silicon caulk was easy. Sometimes I used WD40 as a lubricant, but mostly scraping it off was enough.


RESULTS: held against light rain, but began leaking after two days worth of thunderstorms.


REFLECTIONS:

I noticed that the edge of the tape could be pried off with even my fingers if I gave it a hard rub. Which made me think that those exposed edges could be weak, especially on PVC and other plastics. Perhaps I messed up by not using a 50/50 solution of IPA & water (instead I took passes with paper towels alternating between IPA and water) and I could have also bought the P94 primer.


RATING: 5/10; it's easy, fast, and not messy, but it didn't work. I wish it were stickier, edges were better.



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